Independent designers get creative with capsule collections


Independent designers often look to different art forms, references from antiquity and other mediums to create innovative and intriguing jewelry collections. Here, three designers introduced a capsule collection or developed already existing designs, based on everything from utilitarian elements to historical symbolism to fashion bindings and mosaic tiles:

Samantha Jackson from Heavenly vices recently launched a brand new capsule line based on her original collection of unique and reimagined Victorian Love Tokens, which she aptly named “Love Stories”. The new group takes up the patterns and feelings of authentic love tokens with a twist: these are locks that can be worn alone as a necklace or with its pendants or any meaningful piece from your jewelry collection. She created continuity for her clients by calling this new capsule “Lock Stories”. When his collection launched in 2017, Jackson had already amassed 2,000 rare pieces. As she explained in an article (here) “Love tokens are real coins of different denominations made of sterling silver, 22k gold and copper which have been crushed on one side and engraved according to the customer specifications to give as a token of friendship, family or romantic love. ”His passion for hunting down the most beautifully executed engraved initials, heartfelt, playful and surprising sayings, rebus currency and coins has him made to frame them in exclusive glasses and halos or hang them from sparkling balls or both, creating new life and transforming them into unique pendants.

She then cast some of the most popular designs and lyrics in gold so that she could replicate them with different glasses for women who loved the originals that were sold. These have a solid plain back and were no longer coins, but could be engraved with names, dates, and other meaningful personal messages to the wearer.

Jackson has now taken this concept to locks, showcasing some of the Victorian era’s most recognizable talismans and symbols. The result is a three-sided combination lock with each side representing the same sentiment in a different language – the Roman alphabet, Victorian symbols, and Braille (which was also created during the Victorian era.)

Jackson says, “I’ve wanted to add something new to my collection for a long time, but it was important that it made sense in the context of my love token collection, so it took a while to find something that is thematically connected. Love tokens were a vehicle of communication in an era when open expression of feelings was frowned upon, and I loved the idea of ​​having a secret message in the locks – the four sections of the lock turn and not turn. ‘open only when the words / topics are aligned. She continues, “I decided to use braille as the third side because it was invented in the Victorian era, and I really loved the idea of ​​creating something that blind people could connect with. because jewelry is traditionally a visual medium and it’s so tactile and fun. No one should be deprived of the joy of jewelry! “

Her initial capsule collection revolves around three themes that Jackson says are universal themes that will resonate with a wide audience: luck, love, and being a mother. Future additions to the collection include additional themes, a vertical version of the lock, and an option to create something completely personalized.

Michelle fantaci is another designer who added a capsule to her collection. Hers is called “Threads” and includes 20 pieces inspired by fashion details, part of the fabric-inspired jewelry trend. Fantaci’s is a little different from what you see in the fringes, embroidery, stitches. She has created very easy-to-wear pendants, lariats and rings that are inspired by “methods of connecting the components of clothing.” “This group focuses on things like stitches, buttons and buttonholes, cords and eyelets, the basic building blocks of those mechanics starting with the needle and the thread.

To achieve the look she wanted, “castings are used with chain mail as toggle closures and a pivot hinge developed to preserve the integrity of the constituent parts of a bracelet.” While these types of closures are traditionally static in clothing, Fantaci has found a way to imbue its pieces with movement and fluidity in certain pieces. The buttons act like toggles with the buttonholes of the lariats. “In other rooms I wanted this functionality but had to attach the buttons to the buttonholes to make the room as a whole work better. The button thread earrings have needles on the chains that can thread through the button holes and shorten the chains while adding extra security.

Fantaci coins are crafted in 14k gold. All pieces relate and haggle well together and can be worn in multiple combinations with each other and can be easily mixed with other pieces in an existing jewelry wardrobe.

Fantanci adds: “The theme of buttons and threads is universal. I think it will appeal to a large audience. Many of us have grandmothers or other family members who have kept a sewing kit or those Danish cookie tins full of buttons, that these everyday items have the potential for sentimentality or nostalgia. It’s really appealing at a time when we are looking for pieces that seem familiar to us in uncertainty while offering a different take on jewelry.

Berlinger Expanded the Diamond Mosaic Collection â„¢ Unlike the other designers mentioned in this article, it started out as a ring capsule, designer Michelle Berlinger evolved rings to include pendants and earrings. Its entire collection makes a nod to antique jewelry from the Victorian era to art deco.

The Diamond Mosaic Collection â„¢ was originally based on the geometric shapes and diamond cuts of the Art Deco period, but consumer demand and the creativity that comes with every limited edition or one-off piece has revealed a designer whose style is distinctive. to its brand. External shapes such as octagons, shields, round and elongated ovals are intricately created by assembling like a puzzle of different fancy cups of marquise, baguettes, princess and trillions into a dazzling diamond work of art that makes allusion to the work of the tiling and the most graphic of architectural facades.

Each of the mosaic patterns is designed around an ancient or modern cut central diamond. “It’s more about the compositions than the bling that is traditionally associated with several diamond pieces. These are designed with a more subdued grace and juxtaposes the graphic with the feminine, dimensional yet light look on the neck, ears or fingers.

About Laurence Johnson

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